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lake eibsee and zugspitze

Lake Eibsee, Germany

2024: Travel, Dogs, and Pickleball

December 30, 2024 by Jess Gitner

I’ve spent the last week hanging out with Stephanie and the dogs and generally doing as I please. For the first time ever, I work for a company that shuts down between Christmas and New Years, and it has been amazing! I’m binging shows, playing pickleball on weekday afternoons, practicing guitar, watching movies, and recharging my batteries for 2025! Life is good, and I feel incredibly fortunate.

Sankey diagram of my 2023 job hunt

A little over a year ago, things weren’t as great. My then-employer, which was based in Massachusetts, announced a return-to-office mandate. Aside from leaving behind colleagues I genuinely enjoyed and being forced into a tough job market, I also felt a huge amount of grief losing the role that liberated me from a very difficult and demanding position before that. A lot of hustle, some positive self-talk, an encouraging partner, and a little luck landed me a job offer just before Christmas 2023. I’m happy I’ll be celebrating a year with that company next month!

A Year of Travel

It feels trite to describe a year as busy, but 2024 certainly was. I didn’t quite realize how much travel I really did until I checked the Southwest app, but turns out I took 13 trips in total (12 plane rides and one road trip). I saw both new and familiar places, visited friends and family, met in-person with colleagues, and saw some awesome bands perform live. The gallery below includes a photo from each of places I went this year, and if you follow me on Instagram, I tried to pick different photos.

In a twist of irony, my year of travel began with a frigid solo trip to Oslo where I bought a vintage wool sweater. Now my year is closing out with a tragic end to that very sweater, having accidentally shrunk it in the wash over Christmas. The year’s unlikely bookends!

Oslo, Norway (January 2024)
Oslo, Norway (January 2024)

Solo trip between jobs

Calistoga, CA (January 2024)
Calistoga, CA (January 2024)

Mom and me

Brighton, MA (March 2024)
Brighton, MA (March 2024)

The Magnetic Fields play ‘69 Love Songs’ in its entirety over two nights

St. Petersburg, FL (May 2024)
St. Petersburg, FL (May 2024)

The Beaches at Jannus Live

Washington, DC (June 2024)
Washington, DC (June 2024)

Georgetown reunion

Indianapolis (June 2024)
Indianapolis (June 2024)

Solo work trip

Bernkastel-Kues, Germany (June 2024)
Bernkastel-Kues, Germany (June 2024)

Steph and my 10-year anniversary trip to Germany

Clearwater, FL (August 2024)
Clearwater, FL (August 2024)

Family trip to Florida. Narrowly avoided a tropical storm!

Minneapolis/St. Paul, MN (August 2024)
Minneapolis/St. Paul, MN (August 2024)

Walker Art Center with Dan, Claire, and kids

New Orleans, LA (October 2024)
New Orleans, LA (October 2024)

Beignets with the D6 girls

San Diego, CA (October 2024)
San Diego, CA (October 2024)

Pickleball break with colleagues

Bahamas (November 2024)
Bahamas (November 2024)

Rapid River at Atlantis Resort

Atlanta, GA (December 2024)
Atlanta, GA (December 2024)

Meeting the new nephew and celebrating with Steph’s family

Oslo, Norway (January 2024) Calistoga, CA (January 2024) Brighton, MA (March 2024) St. Petersburg, FL (May 2024) Washington, DC (June 2024) Indianapolis (June 2024) Bernkastel-Kues, Germany (June 2024) Clearwater, FL (August 2024) Minneapolis/St. Paul, MN (August 2024) New Orleans, LA (October 2024) San Diego, CA (October 2024) Bahamas (November 2024) Atlanta, GA (December 2024)

A Year of Visitors, Too

While I spent a lot of time away from home, we were also lucky enough to host family in St. Louis. First, my mom, sister, and niece in April; then Steph’s dad in June; followed by Steph’s mom in October.

View fullsize Dinner at Indo
Dinner at Indo
View fullsize Family pickleball
Family pickleball
View fullsize Post-front yard makeover
Post-front yard makeover
View fullsize Bitter bears at Little Lager
Bitter bears at Little Lager

My family’s visit was the kick in the pants we needed to finally assemble the day bed for what we affectionately refer to as “the dog room”; its gigantic box had been haunting us at our front entrance for months. The bed is now yet another soft place for the dogs to nap, but when we have more than one guest or couple visiting, we now have room for two more! Their visit was also my first time playing pickleball. Reader, I was hooked.

Steph’s dad and Cyndi gave our front yard a total makeover while I was sick with covid. We wish they wouldn’t work so hard whenever they visit, but they always leave the place better than when they arrive, and we are grateful!

Last but not least, Steph’s mom is always down for wherever we take her. This time we brought her to Little Lager where she tried their Malört-soaked gummy bears. Cheers to Marti!

Pickleball, Pickleball, Pickleball!

The first time I played pickleball was April. As of today (December 30th), I’ve logged over 115 hours of playing time! No wonder it is the fastest growing sport in America - it’s addicting and I’m addicted indeed!

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My predicament, however, was that I had no one to play with after my family went home. I found some friends willing to play here and there, but not enough to whet my appetite, so I resorted to showing up for open play at the local park. It was a bold move for my introverted self, but some very nice people gave me tips and helped me improve. Still, I was getting my butt kicked, so I signed up for a clinic. Then joined a league, then signed up for a tournament, and well, you get the gist.

Aside from being the outlet I didn’t know I needed, pickleball has also been fantastic for my health! My VO2 Max and Strava fitness score are both on the up and up, and I’m more motivated to stretch and work out to keep this aging body strong and limber.

A Full (Dog) House

This year we got into a real rhythm fostering for Pet Rescue Network (PRN) thanks to finding our sweet spot: small senior-ish dogs. Pippa, Minnie, and Nelson are the best pack, and it’s only because they are so welcoming that we’re able to bring all these new dogs into our home without issue.

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Snickers (now Cricket), a 6-lb old gal with a body of strange proportions, came to us in late 2023 with rancid breath. 13 teeth removed later, we welcomed her kisses. While she tested our patience with 5am wake up calls and stealthy pees on many a comforter, this tiny girl won our hearts with a spunkiness uncommon for a dog of her age.

Belle (now Bel-Aire) arrived unsure of what the f*ck was going on, obese with a clicking knee. This skeptical girl quickly settled in and began her weight loss journey, dropping 3 lbs and getting more playful as she became more mobile. She was always so hot and would turn belly up to cool off. We hear she is down to 13.6 lbs with her new mom, a 25% reduction from her 18-lb starting weight! Go, Belle!

Cheeto, our most recent foster, is a googly eyed toothless Chihuahua, who joined us in rough shape. He was anemic from fleas and banged up from who-knows-what after being found near a very busy street. With one working eye and one intact testicle, this guy’s sass went well beyond his tiny 5.5-lb body. We sent him off to his new family on December 23rd, and we miss him already!

To 2025

We already have a new foster dog named Dottie, who I’ll introduce some other time (find more frequent updates on Instagram). While she’s petite, she’s outside our typical demographic in that she is young, which comes with its own set of fun and challenges (read: potty training).

Thank you for stopping by to read if you made it this far. I’m so often torn between hiding and sharing, but today is for sharing. Happy New Year to all!

December 30, 2024 /Jess Gitner
germany, oslo, st. louis, pickleball, travel, 2024, foster dogs
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Alone in this beautiful bathroom. A metaphor for this trip.

Solo in Oslo

January 27, 2024 by Jess Gitner

When I worked the overnight shift at NPR, I became used to a surreal kind of isolation and loneliness. One on hand, I was surrounded by people – producers, editors, engineers, and hosts – all working on deadline to put on a show. On the other hand, North America was fast asleep and I was kind of on my own.

Mjøl Bakeri in Sagene, where I went every morning. It’s about 7:30am here in January and still dark outside.

My recent six-day trip to Oslo, Norway, booked somewhat impulsively on a Thursday and leaving the following Tuesday as my “wild” adventure between jobs, was like one giant overnight shift. In a city of 700,000+, I was alone; it was also quite dark, with only 6-7 hours of sunlight each day. Everyone spoke English, but in what stood out to me as the biggest cultural difference I observed, there was no curiosity about who I was or why I was there during some of the coldest days of winter. True story: I went to the same (wonderful) bakery every morning and bought a coffee and pastry. By day three, I was a little loony and exclaimed “Me again!” to virtually no reaction from the guy behind the counter. In this country of extreme introverts, I somehow was an extrovert!

The entrance to The Well Spa. I took the bus here and walked up this cold and slippery driveway.

The upside of navigating Oslo without feeling noticed was freedom and anonymity, and this was incredibly empowering for my visit to The Well, the largest spa and bathhouse in all of Scandinavia located just south of the city. Somewhat out of character for my Type A personality, I made only two concrete plans for my trip to Oslo and visiting this nude (!) spa was one of them. While some people do wear swimsuits there, they’re banned in all the saunas and steam rooms and must be purchased there if you opt to cover up. Notably, the spa is not segmented by gender so you’re just out there… with everyone and all their parts. I gave myself the space and freedom to make a game time decision and ultimately decided to go au naturel. Gasp!

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I spent six hours at The Well, basking in complete joy and freedom, meandering from sauna to shower to pool and back again. I loved the extreme heat of the Finnish sauna and the misty air of the tepidarium. Looking at the sky and the snow and the steam rising from the still 100° water at the outdoor Japanese onsen, I felt like the luckiest person in the world, if only for a moment. For the curious, among my favorite areas were (all temps in Fahrenheit):

The caldarium with a 97° warm mineral bath with steam and a scent of jasmine. This is of course a photo provided by The Well since no cameras or phones were allowed!

  • Art Deco tepidarium at 104-116°, 80-100% humidity

  • Japanese steam bath at 104-116°, 80-100% humidity

  • The Wellness pool at 90° (see above)

  • Art deco caldarium at 97° (see right)

  • Finnish Sauna Temperature at 176-187°,  6-15% humidity (see above)

  • Japanese Onsen at 100°, outdoor air temp of 0°! (see above)

New tattoo drawn to fit on upper arm by Ingunn Dybendal at Lucky 7 Oslo

The second thing I planned for my time in Oslo was a tattoo, which I love to collect while traveling. I wasn’t overly confident the artist I wanted (shoutout to Instagram search!) would be available given the lack of advanced notice, but luck was on my side and she was free. My appointment was set for 10am, which is the crack of dawn for most places where I’ve gotten tattooed in the U.S. They also accepted credit card and the price included tip. Why am I mentioning the boring details of payment processes? In my experience, not knowing how many hundreds of dollars of cash to bring is the most stressful thing about getting a tattoo, and I was thrilled that it was easy peasy.

Let’s pause for a moment. Why Oslo? Why Oslo during winter… during an unseasonably cold stretch? (By the way, the high was 6° F and the low was around -12°). The short answer is that I’ve always had a thing for Scandinavia – jeg snakker litt norsk! — and while I would’ve preferred somewhere warm and tropical, the idea of going solo to an all-inclusive in Mexico, Jamaica, or Dominican Republic just didn’t seem exciting. The stars aligned to see a friend who lived there, and that sealed the deal. 

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Back to the trip. I was a little apprehensive about getting around Oslo, but my journey to The Well just south of the city gave me all the confidence in the world to get wherever I needed. Their public transportation system is like the Apple of public transport. The Ruter app told me everything I needed to know to get anywhere and everywhere, and it held my hand through transfers, walking directions, and whether my ticket covered the trip. The signage and live updates at bus stops were better than most, if not all, systems I’ve seen in the U.S. (see above), and you’d have to be a real dummy to screw it up. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw a sign that said the transit system would reimburse you for a cab if the bus or tram was more than 20 minutes late. Can you imagine?! Finally, my bar may be low, but they had USB ports everywhere so I never had to deal with the anxiety of a dying phone, which was a blessing during such cold weather.

Outside the Astrup Fearnley Museum, where I thought I might lose some fingers.

I spent a lot of time in museums to seek shelter from the cold, which wasn’t so bad aside from the hand I exposed to take photos on my phone and GoPro. All the museums were in stunningly beautiful areas, so I couldn’t help but snap a few selfies. I looked at my pale white fingers more than once wondering if they’d rebound or truly fall off. Since I’d been to Oslo in 2013, I stuck to museums I hadn’t already seen, which included the Munch Museum, the National Museum, and the Astrup Fearnley Museum. I love modern and contemporary art, so these museums were more than a refuge. I loved so many pieces I saw, including the lighter side of Edvard Munch (known for “The Scream”) and some Scandinavian artists I hadn’t heard of before, like Vanessa Baird and Lena Conqvist (see slideshow). And I loved the themes of loneliness in his art; it felt meant to be on this solo trip.

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Of course, Scandinavia is also known for design, and whether museums or bathrooms or even skateparks, everything was indeed beautiful. The trip was easy on the eyes in virtually every sense, and that kept my mind active and engaged even though there was no one to chat with. 

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There’s a Norwegian saying that “There is no bad weather, only bad clothes!” In that spirit, I set my sights on buying some cozy wool gear and squeezed in visits to Marimekko, the Finnish store; Devold, a Norwegian wool clothing store; and Fretex, the Salvation Army used store in Norway. I found some great wool sweaters and basically wore one of them the rest of the trip, since it was so much warmer than the thinner sweaters I brought with me. 

The dressing room at Fretex in Grunerløkka trying on the sweater that kept me warm for the rest of my trip.

Reddit was not only helpful for finding Fretex and Devold, but also for identifying restaurants where it wouldn’t be super weird to eat alone. I ate some solid meals and drank some delicious wine, but I think I was counting on a little socializing with bartenders or fellow solo diners. For better or worse, it didn’t happen and that made it easier for my trip to end.

I loved my funky, frigid, isolating trip to Oslo, and it was the perfect reset to a new year following a couple rollercoaster weeks of 2023.

January 27, 2024 /Jess Gitner
oslo, norway, public transportation, winter, museums
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